Riding Giants

I love watching surfing documentaries. And this one is outstanding. What could be better? Tropical setting, lotsa water, guys on a wave? Nice.

And then somehow during the last part of the movie, they begin to talk about faith. A 30 foot wave is out of your control. You can only bring your experience with how to deal with such an awesome, natural occurrence. And then during the take off of looking straight down a mountain of moving water there is faith that you will either jump off or stay with it. As Laird Hamilton said,” I can’t make it, unless I just stay on.” And that for me translates to anything you choose to do with life.

You cannot succeed unless you try. As I jokingly said to my husband “You have to enter to win.” We can hem and haw about all the responsibilities we have, but it’s in the pure dedication that things begin to take shape. You want to fulfill a dream? Don’t put it off. Make it happen. Or what I really mean to say is, what would happen or how would it be if you knew you would NOT fail? If you had the pure faith you would succeed.

These guys put their life on the line to experience oneness with the sea. It’s pure exhilaration. Although I don’t want to be a big wave surfer, I do want to be a working artist. And I can’t make it, unless I stick with it.